[Btucker805]

So, I took the plunge and bought a boat, 2000 Seapro 180cc, 2003 mercury 90 2stroke, sitting on a 84 'Long' branded roller trailer. Bust out another thousand indeed. Already a half G deep, after the purchase price, and I haven't even got past the trailer! To be fair I knew I was going to need to completely new axle, leaf springs, the whole 9 going in. I just had a few questions maybe somebody could take a stab at. First, hopefully the pictures below attached, but see how the back rollers have come up behind the stern and are not on the bottom of the hull? I've been trying to find pictures to see if this is normal.. I would assume that when you go to put in, the boat would float up over the rollers and that wouldn't be a problem, I don't know. They also seem to keep the boat from moving back and forth on the trailer. Second, the winch has a 600 lb rating, the boat+motor+fuel+gear is right around 2,000 so even with a 3:1 ratio it seems a tad over capacity. I've already replace both sets of safety chains (old ones rusted all to hell) with some 4,000 lb rated ones and plan on getting heavy duty ratchet straps for the bow for more security while towing. Lastly, the new axle is not galvanized, maybe a dumb thing to do, but the guy I got it from said to get some cold galvanizing spray paint and paint it every year. I plan on washing everything down well after trips out so hopefully it won't turn into a cloud of rust like the last one. The new axle is just powder coated from the factory, should I prime it first and then galvanize? Galvanize then top coat? Nothing?
Maybe I'll just sell the thing and keep to my kayak. But seriously, I'm really excited and I knew going in it wasn't going to be the easiest process and if I can get all this taken care of in the winter, good times will be had (hopefully) this summer. Boater safety course, check. Required safety gear, check. Licenses, titles, and such, check. I was thinking about the York river state park as a first try out spot. Not too crowded, probably won't get lost, who knows. Thanks for any input!.

 

[Benji]

Ditch the rollers and put poly covered wood runner's on trailer much less of a pain in the ass, and safer, and cheaper. Craigslist the rollers. Guide post would make it easier to "power load" making for very little winching. Should be bare steel for true galvanizing, since it's already painted I'd keep an eye on it and paint it as necessary. Or you can get herculiner from home Depot for $70, it's roll or brush on bed liner.

 

[dawgfsh]

Looks like the winch stand might need to be moved back about 4-6"

 

[IPNURWATER]

You don't unhook the safety chain or winch before you go to launch the boat in the water with roller on the trailer. One down fall to a roller trailer 's. Vs bunks.it will roll off the trailer in a sec. So when you go to launch the boat it will rise over those rear rollers on the trailer so those shouldn't be a issue .

most parts on a trailer acc, hardware, brackets Etc isn't galvinised but steel or ss which is why most trailer need these parts replace after a bit. Pretty common . as for the winch you are not winching all 2000 lbs of dead weight .the boat floats in water and the winch is there to move the boat while float. Not on the trailer with dead weight you will destroy your winch and possible boat hull fitting or more. If your putting a new axle in I'm asuming your doing the bearing and checking the spindles while your at it.? Did you check the axle load ratings when purchased? And leaf ratings?

 

[IPNURWATER]

Your transducer needs to be moved up about an inch or two and the screws don't look sealed .plus I don't see a bead seal on the scupper drain as well .I would pull as many screws you can and put some 5600 sealant in it and rebead it. If any thru hull fitiing are plastic check them they dry rott and leak.live well pumps bilge etc...

 

[IPNURWATER]

Looks like the winch stand might need to be moved back about 4-6"

judgeing from the rear you look good .Imo if you move that winch stand back the back rollers are gonna be off the boat .plus your shifting the boats weight on the trailer which could result in you moving the axle back or forward. you want to be a few inches off the back hull and that's looks like all you have .if anything replace the back rollers with bigger ones to lift the boat up off the frame slightly and then you won't be shifting the boats weight around.

 

[IPNURWATER]

Just repowered and rebuilt my 19 ft c.c. doing the floor this April or may..

 

[IPNURWATER]

 

[IPNURWATER]

Ever wire ,fuel line ,cable ,steering and electronic was replaced.pulled n flush tank. I think I'm gonna move the shifter up,higher on the cc.. Seems low to me,but I'll figure that out after the first test ride. Just waiting on my new switch panel to Finish the install and clean that cc up a little.

 

[IPNURWATER]

Ditch the rollers and put poly covered wood runner's on trailer much less of a pain in the ass, and safer, and cheaper. Craigslist the rollers. Guide post would make it easier to "power load" making for very little winching. Should be bare steel for true galvanizing, since it's already painted I'd keep an eye on it and paint it as necessary. Or you can get herculiner from home Depot for $70, it's roll or brush on bed liner.

X2
I love bunks so much easier and safer. Eapeicaly when you launch by your self.

 

[buckstand]

X3 on covered wood bunks (runners). Be sure to use pressure treated wood and stainless hardware. IMO wood bunks are much easier on the hull, more surface area against the hull than rollers, and less maintenance.

I'd just make sure the axle had a good coat of paint and the bearings are packed at least once a year. All my trailers also have Bearing Buddies installed.
Welcome to the money pit.

 

[Gditm]

Looks like the winch stand might need to be moved back about 4-6"

Yes

 

[letmefish]

Yes

Agreed!

 

[E.S Richie]

This reminds me again what 'boat' stands for