[BeachBob]

This is an olde tyme jig from the '40s that was cast in tin, weighed 3 to 4ozs and was a surfcasting favorite. Here are original Mickey Jig images from a 1947 movie about Hatteras and Montauk surf fishing ...

There was a Mickey Jig mold made by Hilts Molds, available at the end of the last century, and when Ray Hilts died his molds were sold to Dolphin Sports. They offered the mold but couldn't find the Mickey mold in the Hilts warehouse until earlier this year. I've been looking for this mold for over decade, so when it became available I jumped on buying one ($68/shipped).

The Hilts Mickey Jig mold ...

So, how well does the Hilts Mickey Jig mold work for pouring lead and making a lure? Sorta well, I'll explain.

Here are four Micky Jigs. The two on the left are from the Hilts mold (3.7ozs) and a pair of Mickey Jigs ("F14", 2ozs) that I bought over five years ago ...

... notice how the original Mickey Jigs in the first three images have a "washer ring" at the nose for line tying and so does the 2oz jigs in the above image.

No instructions or info comes with the Hilts Mickey Jig mold - Dolphin only states that their BSE-2 brass eyelet is to be used at the hook end and the hole in the nose is for line tying. That won't make for a strong connection between the hook and line. So I used a 1/6" s/s thru-wire to link the nose and tail, for a stronger lure ...

While this solves the overall strength integrity issue, that forward nose hole for the line is awkward to set up in the mold prior to casting, and not easy to use line clips when fishing. So I'll test modify one of the cavities to allow the thru-wire nose loop to come outside the lure and eliminate the nose hole completely. This is how it's being done with the Pucci Mickey lures being sold these days ...

I'll also be chrome PC plating the jigs for flash and durability. Currently casting with a 1:16 (tin: lead) alloy to add a bit of hardness to the lure. The mold needs to be well preheated before casting - I just leave it on top of the furnace until the 20lb lead pot is fully melted and ready for casting.

 

[bigjim5589]

Awesome post BeachBob! I still have a few old tins, and have one of the Hilts Mickey molds too. Like you, I through wire them when I pour them. I also only pour them with lead, have not done so with tin, but I did try pouring some tin a lot of years ago with a different mold. Tin's expensive, but worthwhile if a steady source that is reasonably priced is available to you.

I have a lot of molds, over 400 of various types and have primarily used reclaimed wheel weights over the years, which is a hard type of lead and never saw that to be a problem. There's a learning curve and not all molds pour the same, but I've been able to make the wheel weight lead work. Of course now, a lot of the wheel weights are not lead, so finding those that are is getting more difficult to do.

I haven't had anything chrome plated, and instead use powder paints in chrome & gold, and although not as shiny as chrome plate, they do a decent job and I powder coat everything that I pour anyway, so keeps the cost down.

This first tin was a home made one that a friend gave to me. The other two are commercial versions. I don't have any photo's of the Mickey lures poured from the Hilts mold.

The last two photos are a rough jig/tin that was made from a trolling sinker. I bought several old molds years ago, and there was one in there that someone had modified. It's not pretty, but I have caught Stripers on it. I was still learning how to work with the powder coat when I made this one. Sorry about that last photo, I took it to show the shape of the sides. Even as rough as it is, it has a nice action to it when vertical jigging. About 2 ounces.

 

[BeachBob]

Good stuff, bigjim!

I used a Dremel to remove the front post (for the line hole) for one cavity, so that the thru-wire would be an external loop for attaching line/leader. Hope it works, will find out later today.

 

[bigjim5589]

More of my arsenal of spoons & jigs and Trout Bombs that I had made. Last time I did any saltwater fishing was at Pawley's Island, SC, back in 2013. We moved from MD to SC in 2015 and I generally only fish in the lake now, but keep the saltwater gear around, just in case I get the chance to go again. These are all lead.

 

[BeachBob]

I used a lotta Hopkins back in the day, but the Mickey was my favorite - it has a real nice retrieve action, I think due to the "V" of its rear.

 

[ExcessiveAngler]

Very nice work here guys!
I see you finally found a Mickey mold BeachBob.
I found a guy on FB, who said his father has the mold and hopefully I’ll be able to get him to make me some, after I trade him some nice clean lead!
I would love to try to get some of these in red and white, as well as the usual chrome, but I would really love to figure out how to get them in gold as well for the rivers!

EA

 

[BeachBob]

I think the best "paint job" for any tin squid is chrome one side and gold on t'other.

 

[K-Town Bubba]

I think the best "paint job" for any tin squid is chrome one side and gold on t'other.

I’m interested in some 4-5 oz bucktails, any idea who sells molds for these? I looked at the Hilt website and also at Doit without secession. Thanks!

 

[BeachBob]

I have a couple of bullet head jig molds from Do-It ...

Here's a good saltwater hot lips jig mold from Do-It, makes both 4 and 5 ounce jigs ...

Hot Lips Jig - Sz: 4, 5 - Hk: 91715 - Collar: Flair

store.do-itmolds.com

 

[bigjim5589]

I’m interested in some 4-5 oz bucktails, any idea who sells molds for these? I looked at the Hilt website and also at Doit without secession. Thanks!

Do It Molds has been revamping some of their entire line of molds, and discontinuing some and adding others. They still produce a few styles in heavy weights, but to get both 4 & 5 oz. you may have to get two molds. Collins Molds sells on Ebay and he makes some good molds, but they're more costly than Do It. I have a few of his molds, and he does make some in heavy weights. Otherwise, there are some custom mold makers around, but most of them are making molds for bass & panfish, not bigger sizes. Of course it never hurts to ask about having a mold made. CNC Molds & Stuff, Bob La Londe will make you a mold, but he generally does true custom molds, and not copies of what other mold companies produce. cncmolds.com

Likely the most popular style now for bucktails is the Spro style which Do It Molds calls their "Ultra Minnow", and they have a mold that will pour 2, 3 & 4 ounces and one that pours 5, 6 & 8 ounces. Their Spire Point mold is also available to pour those weights but again, you would need two molds to pour both weights. The Do It Shad Head mold might be a good one for you, in 3 & 4 ounce, since it can be tied with bucktail or used with plastic shads & other soft plastic baits. I think Collins has a similar mold that pours heavier weights. As was already mentioned, Do It does have a Hot Lips mold that pours 4 & 5 ounce heads.

I have over 400 molds now, with the majority being Do It, plus I have several molds that they no longer produce. I pour a wide variety of products, so am familiar with what Do IT has in their mold line. These are some of my molds.

 

[Matey]

i too have the mickey mold and have taken a larger split ring and thread it through the mold hole and us it to tie my line to.
great idea on the wire there bob

 

[K-Town Bubba]

Thanks guys for the info on the molds!!

 

[BeachBob]

Chrome powder coating worked fairly well, not perfect, hard to static coat such large objects, but I doubt the fishies will care.

Chilling the just coated lead:tin jigs further hardens the alloy.

Now to wrap up some bucktails and get ready for the Sping run.

 

[bigjim5589]

Cool post BeachBob! I powder coat everything. I had a extra large fluid bed made with extra cups. The cups measure 4" diameter and are all 5" deep. Each cup also takes about a 1/2 pound of powder to fill, but they work well for most of the jigs & spoons that I make & paint.

I've used some chrome powder that has good reflective properties to it, but agree with you it will work, but not as good as plated, but certainly more cost effective since I can do it myself.

I use a Black & Decker over too. If you ever have trouble with the powder dripping, try putting a pan in there between the heating element and what you've painted. When I got my current oven new, I had some dripping and it was only where the jigs were near the heating elements. I set the temp with a calibrated lab thermometer, so knew it was correct, but the temps at the heating elements vary a lot as the thermostat cuts them on & off. An aluminum pan in the bottom to better diffuse the heat fixed that problem.

That oven replaced one that had used for many years, and it was also a Black & Decker.