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The Rival has absolutely NO brakes of any kind and I can cast it hands off for the most part. Clearly there are nuances to all reels that can help or hinder serious casting distances, and lots will have to do with casting technique.
Just FYI,
I noticed the knob next to the handle and did some minor checking. The schematic lists part # 26 as Spool Tension Control Cap. Part numbers 40C & 40D are thrust washers. Normally there would be less need for cast control with a level wind reel .

Do use mono line, load with 20# at least for starters, don't use braid at least initially. Whatever rod you test will will have a payload sweet spot, where its rated throwing weight range is typically not accurate. Try some weights in the low to mid range first before loading to the rod's "rated" max.
Exactly! Especially when casting for distance.
I have a CTS rod rated 8 to 10 ounces. It casts OK (not great) when casting 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 ounces.
A Lamiglas GSB 1502MH broke when testing. Although it was rated 6 to 16 ounces, it broke at 10 ounces. The designer thought a tag may have been left out of the ferrule during construction. Later I asked Dick Posey how lure weights were determined. His response was "By feedback from fishermen". That was not the answer that I was expecting.

And very important.
Above all, have fun! Now load up and get throwing! :)
Don
 

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Just FYI,
I noticed the knob next to the handle and did some minor checking. The schematic lists part # 26 as Spool Tension Control Cap. Part numbers 40C & 40D are thrust washers. Normally there would be less need for cast control with a level wind reel .

Don
The spool "play" adjustment is just that - for setting the minimal side-to-side "slop" between the reel's side plates.

It is not a brake, and should not be used as a braking mechanism.

Therefore, as a Penn tech stated to me, the Penn Rival reels have NO internal brakes, When the Penn website states that Rivals have "mechanical" brakes, they are referring to an external brake - the caster's thumb (I kid you not - that was also confirmed by a Penn tech).

BB.
 

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I used a 9000c for years. Stay with 20 lb test and keep clean after each use. No problem hitting 120+. Tighten the drag all the way down when reeling in to control the two speed.
 

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Clean the 9000s and take the side plates off both sides completely apart. and make sure you clean the bearings of gunk. Cleaning the bearings is perhaps the most important thing you can do.

I use CRC and spray rather than take apart some of the mechanisms but you have to take the drag stack apart and clean the drag washers. After drag washers are dry coat with Cals Drag Grease.

After the reel dries use Rem Oil on the bearings and spool spindles.

There may or may not be any brakes in the side plate. I would not mag it unless you are having problems. I would start with one brake block. You can use Daiwa Brake Blocks if your 9000 did not have any in it.

If you keep 3/8" of bare spool to the rim. when you load the line you will have less problems as far as blow ups and you get a better grip on the spool with your thumb.

Forget Braid for Drum Fishing everyone will talk behind your back and some right to your face, monp casts better anyway.

I have a bunch of 9000s and an 8000 and a 8600 and a bunch of 7000s. The 7000s cast better but we thought back in the day that we needed more line capacity than the 7000 carried because we mostly fished with 25 pound Stren.

For me the difference between a 7000 and a 11' SurfStick and a Penn Fathom on a 13' 1307 is about thirty or forty yards in distance with 8 ounces.

That thirty or forty yards usually means the difference between watching and catching when Drum fishing, so I seldom use my older rods much anymore.
 

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I can only cast lefty and I envy the plethora of righty cranks currently available - you guys are so lucky.
 

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The spool "play" adjustment is just that - for setting the minimal side-to-side "slop" between the reel's side plates.
On what type of reel would spool slop be useful ?

It is not a brake, and should not be used as a braking mechanism.

Therefore, as a Penn tech stated to me, the Penn Rival reels have NO internal brakes, When the Penn website states that Rivals have "mechanical" brakes, they are referring to an external brake - the caster's thumb (I kid you not - that was also confirmed by a Penn tech).
Well, if you would check the Penn website you will find that the conventional reels without brakes will have the statement "None".
 

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On what type of reel would spool slop be useful ?



Well, if you would check the Penn website you will find that the conventional reels without brakes will have the statement "None".
Not so for the Rival ... no "none" there, but there is that "Mechanical" word. :)

xx.png
 

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I just sold an Abu 10000CL that I bought brand new in 1986. Never had a problem casting with it including shock leaders...
 

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On what type of reel would spool slop be useful ?
Having a spool centering adjustment is critical. we want the spool sides centered on the frame and that is what the dual spool center adjustment is all about - it is not a spool braking mechanism. likewise, a single spool adjustment will allow setting the spool "slop" to a very small amount, not "sloppy" and not to be used as a spool brake.
 

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A reel not adjusted properly will allow line to possibly get wrapped up behind the spool and the frame.
 

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Having a spool centering adjustment is critical. we want the spool sides centered on the frame and that is what the dual spool center adjustment is all about
I believe we were talking about the Rival that has one knob identified as a Tension Control Knob.
What reels have one knob for centering the spool? If there is one, you would need to use shims. Maybe there is such a reel.

ABU does have carry overs from earlier reels. Their cast control caps on the 5500 and 6500 reels should not be used for cast control. They are used for centering the reel and adjusting the "slop".

likewise, a single spool adjustment will allow setting the spool "slop" to a very small amount, not "sloppy" and not to be used as a spool brake.
I suggest you go back and review the Penn website. The reels with a knob by the handle are listed as having mechanical braking. Most of the reels without the knob list none as the type of braking. And, some of the conventional reels list magnetic as the type of braking. I did not find any listed as centrifugal type braking. Should you find any listed as centrifugal, please let me know.
 

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A reel not adjusted properly will allow line to possibly get wrapped up behind the spool and the frame.
That problem can have a few causes and sometimes causes in combination.

1. The gap between the spool and cage is excessive
2. The spool in the cage is not centered forward/aft and up/down. This will cause a gap around the spool/cage that varies wide to narrow.
3. Using line that has a small diameter.
4. Poor reel design tolerances. Poor engineering. Includes spool, cage, side plates (IOW the whole reel).

A trick used to temporarily enhance mag control for a bait caster with a magnet carriage is to move the spool to the left and closer to the magnets.
 

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I believe we were talking about the Rival that has one knob identified as a Tension Control Knob.
What reels have one knob for centering the spool? If there is one, you would need to use shims. Maybe there is such a reel.

One knob is NOT for centering, it's to adjust spool side play or "slop" and it is NOT for spool braking

ABU does have carry overs from earlier reels. Their cast control caps on the 5500 and 6500 reels should not be used for cast control. They are used for centering the reel and adjusting the "slop".

One knob will not center, nor is it for "cast control".

I suggest you go back and review the Penn website. The reels with a knob by the handle are listed as having mechanical braking. Most of the reels without the knob list none as the type of braking. And, some of the conventional reels list magnetic as the type of braking. I did not find any listed as centrifugal type braking. Should you find any listed as centrifugal, please let me know.

Somehow, you've not read and digested my posts about the Rival in this thread. It has ONE spool "side play" knob, It is NOT a centering knob, nor is it a spool braking device. Go back and look at the image I posted of the Penn Rival website page that lists that the Rival utilizes a "Mechanical" spool brake - this is FALSE. There are NO spool brakes of any kind on Penn Rival reels. I went as far as calling Penn - Jim, one of their tech guys, specifically stated that their listed "BRAKING SYSTEM: MECHANICAL" is an ERROR, there are no mechanical brakes, and he said "USE YOUR THUMB". He also said the Rival website page needs to be fixed, but it hasn't, and knowing Penn it never will.
 

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"Somehow, you've not read and digested my posts about the Rival in this thread."
OK, you go low and I will go high.

"Go back and look at the image I posted of the Penn Rival website page that lists that the Rival utilizes a "Mechanical" spool brake "

Yes, that does support the probability that the knob is for cast/tension control.

Also, supporting evidence from the Penn RVL15LW schematic is:
Part # 26 Spool Tension Control Cap
Part # 40C Washer, Acetal Thrust
Part # 40D Washer, Rubber Thrust
Part # 29 Spool
Part # 40E Thrust Washer (2 Req)

This may indicate that Penn considers both centrifugal and tension to be mechanical braking.

Evidence that the knob is not used for tension control is "The Penn rep says". Really!

And it has been said numerous times that the knob is for "slop" control. Wouldn't an inexpensive reel built with cost control in mind use shims to manage tolerances. Repetition does not make anything right or wrong.

The attached schematic from the Penn website is for your review.

PEN_Schematic_RIVAL RVL15LW REV 0 1403990.pdf
 

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Spool tension is NOT any manner of a "spool braking system".

Even the Penn tech recognized that fact.
 

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Well, the schematic may be difficult to read and could be hard to understand.

Perhaps the following videos will have sufficient clarity.



 

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Some folks just don't get it. Have fun with yer "no slop brake knob" and hope ya don't blow an axle.
 
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