New guy here to the site. Been reading and trying to find info and so far no luck. Pretty new to the distance casting and just got the squall 15. The reel doesn't seem fast enough for me with the mag all the way off. I've read to clean the grease out of the bearings and oil them to get more speed and distance. I have noticed grease or oil coming from between the spool and frame. How difficult is it to disassemble and clean out the bearings? Not wanting to get in over my head when I pull the side plates but feel the amount of grease used by the factory is holding the reel back from its full capabilities. Thanks
Squall question
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pretty easy reel to work on.......
is it level wind?
if so that will slow things down.
squall is good choice but I believe 525mag is faster
is it level wind?
if so that will slow things down.
squall is good choice but I believe 525mag is faster
Take it back to the store and buy, trade, exchange it for a Penn Fathom 15, Daiwa SL20SH, or buy a Penn 525 Mag from someone.
The sl20sh, and the Fathom cost a little more than the squall but worth the difference in price.
If you're going to keep it.
The spool bearings come out easily.. Leave the factory grease that's in the gear box. No need to even go into it.
Pop off the left side plate slide the spool out. The left bearing is under the little plastic piece that has the ridges on it.. It's actually part of the clicker system. The right bearing is held in similarly. Slide the spindle out and remove both bearings. Soak them in cigarette lighter fluid for about 30 mins or so. If you have an air hose blow them out good with the air hose. If you have some "Hot Sauce" fishing reel lube add a few drops. Some folks use 3n1 oil which does a good job as well for fishing applications. Spin the bearings in your hand to evenly distribute the oil inside the bearing.
Reassemble and go check the reel out.
The sl20sh, and the Fathom cost a little more than the squall but worth the difference in price.
If you're going to keep it.
The spool bearings come out easily.. Leave the factory grease that's in the gear box. No need to even go into it.
Pop off the left side plate slide the spool out. The left bearing is under the little plastic piece that has the ridges on it.. It's actually part of the clicker system. The right bearing is held in similarly. Slide the spindle out and remove both bearings. Soak them in cigarette lighter fluid for about 30 mins or so. If you have an air hose blow them out good with the air hose. If you have some "Hot Sauce" fishing reel lube add a few drops. Some folks use 3n1 oil which does a good job as well for fishing applications. Spin the bearings in your hand to evenly distribute the oil inside the bearing.
Reassemble and go check the reel out.
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keep it.......there is nothing inherently wrong with a squall
it might just be over greased.......
it might just be over greased.......
I agree with both fish bucket and 2na. I have SQL15, SL30SH, and SGT30H (Seagate). I would say that the Daiwa's definitely have faster and longer running free spool out of the box (since there's no mag). SQL15 is still a great performer (in my opinion) and I can cast farther than my spinning gear without worrying about backlash at all. I can outcast Daiwa's over the Squall, but I have to use my thumb to keep it from backlashing. If you have an experienced thumb, Daiwa's may be the way to go to get the extra distance.
Rambo if your "fluffing up" I'd look at which brakes I was running in the Daiwas. Red, black, or clear brakes and how many?
I went to using the ABU medium brakes that look like some sort of cork material. They are much better than the plastic brakes that Daiwa uses. I get no Fluff now.
I went to using the ABU medium brakes that look like some sort of cork material. They are much better than the plastic brakes that Daiwa uses. I get no Fluff now.
Lol, you hit the nail on the head. I am dealing with fluffing (while the sinker is in midair). I have been able to tone down the fluff before it hits the water, but one of these days if I miss timing, I think it would lead to a serious case of bird's nest. Thank you for the heads up. I am using two red brakes - one on each side.
gshivar.. Put one or two brakes in and let it fly. The only time you'll need to touch it is when it lands.
Clean and oil the bearings. Set the end play so there's a slight knock. Play around with the brake blocks till you get what you want. 2 red is a good place to start. Sloshes are line sensitive so keep it down about an 1/8 of an inch.
Clean and oil the bearings. Set the end play so there's a slight knock. Play around with the brake blocks till you get what you want. 2 red is a good place to start. Sloshes are line sensitive so keep it down about an 1/8 of an inch.
I started just like you in the early 80s with a Red Faced Penn Squidder, I got the blisters on my right thumb to prove it. I have changed with the times and as technology has improved our sport. I remember in the early 90s The Penn Mag tuned 980 and 970s were a godsend. I found that "Brakes are my Friend"." I do not consider myself a good caster so I try to find every advantage I can.
Glenn, you might like brakes so try em. "Brakes are your Friend"
On topic.... I pesonally do not like the Squall but that's not saying it is not a good choice for someone else. I think that they are slow and inconsistent, not as smooth as a Slosh or a Fathom. The drag system isn't as good either..
I love the 525 mag it casts llke a rocket, but it gets a little squirrelly casting into the wind. You bump the mags off which happens a lot to everyone who has owned one, cast into the wind, a blow up is immenent. After a while the drag gets jerky too.
Casting style has got a great deal to do with it. I've found just a little fluff will even itself during the cast. Might want to turn your spool tension up a bit until it lays down. Today's technology ... I like taking my thumb off the spool and not touching it until the sinker hits the water when I cast.
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After using penns conventionals,as well as abu,this is what I have come up with "a jerky drag"... I see it MANY TIMES on others that use penn conventionals as well.. For the most part there is "spitting difference" in the casting of all these reels,and not worth fighting a fish on a drag you have to compensate for in the fight.. Guess some really think it cast so much better,but watching folks back up and manually pull their drag during the fight of a fish to make sure there isn't going to be a break off?? Well,to me,it ain't worth it. Plenty of reels out there with at least decent drags and can cast right along side of abu and penn.. But that is just me I guess...
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Was there grease in them?
Yes there was a good bit of grease in them.
+1.......
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