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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After receiving several PM's on how do I make my Shark rigs I decided to do a 101 on the subject. First off I would like to apologize to Mark55 for the delay in the making of this. I was laid up from some recent health issues. So here we go.

Firstly I'am in no way a expert on the subject of sharking. Do I have very good success? Yes I do. Partly because I've evolved my techniques and my rigs to the type of shark I'm fishing for. There are many types of rigs you can use and make that work great. Many people on this forum also could chime in with thier rigs and experience. Keep in mind while your reading this 101 these are the rigs and setup I use but by far not the only way. I myself have as many as 20 different rigs I use depending on which type of shark I'm going after. In this 101 I will show you some of these rigs but will be specifically showing you how to make my favorite rig that will pretty much work on any shark including monster tigers. Also keep in mind me and my son do all our shark fishing from the shore and we use kayaks to take our bait out. Now these rigs could be just placed in the surf if no kayak is available. We all know our tooth friends lurk even in knee deep waters.

These are me and my sons reels we use for sharking Mine is a Shimano tiagra 50 with 1000 yards of power pro 100lb test. His is a Shimano TLD 25 with 700 yards of power pro 80lb test. Once again any reel could be used just keep in mind have plently of line and a solid drag system.

These are the basic things you will need to make this specific rig. 10ft 400lb mono, 2ft 174lb solid strand wire, 2-#16 rubber bands, rig wheel, 350lb test barell swivel, 300lb test aussie swivel, steel thimble, Large hook. I like Diachi 12/0 13/0 improved circle hooks, and a crimp set.


On the subjects of hooks, Many time these huge hooks are used especially J hooks I myself find they are not needed especially if you plan on practicing catch and release. J hooks can cause extreme damage to the shark So I use circle hooks only that are actually not even that big. My shark hooks are also the same I use for red drum.

On to the rig making first take a 2ft piece of 174lb solid wire and haywire twist the aussie swivel on.

to the other end of this wire haywire twist your hook on.

this part complete will look this this.

Next take your 10ft mono and place your 2.2mm double barrel crimp sleeve on and crimp this to your aussie swivel.

Now you want to get your barrel swivel out and with needle nose plyers compress your thimble in place.

The other end of your 10ft mono place your 2.2mm crimp sleeve thread through thimble pull tight and crimp.

And thats the completed rig.

Why the rubber bands you ask. Well I use one attached to the hook for brideling my bait to the hook and the other I place on the barrel swivel to hold the completed rig on the rig wheel till use.


Now a little about this rig. Obviously the solid strand wire is for the sharks toothy parts. Using circle hooks that mostly catch in the corner of the mouth the 2ft piece is plently long enough to prevent bite off. The 10ft section of mono is to prevent the sharks body or tail from cutting the line. With sharks they tend to roll into the line or jump and roll depending on the species either way their bodys and tails are sharp sorta say. Of course the swivel are for line twist during this battle. Now why do I like this rig so much. In my expeirence several interesting things occur with shark fishing. One they can be very shy to alot of steel cable and wire. They actually can sense it and this will prevent a strike. By eliminating all cable and wire except the 2ft for bite off protection my strike and hook ups have increased drastically. Also with this rig after catching a shark just cut the solid wire, release the shark and attach a new 2ft wire with hook to the existing mono rig and walla new shark rig. The 10 ft mono depending on what sharks you catch should last you a many shark battles. I will also post some photos of other shark rigs and things I use shark fishing. But first I want to get this up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
As in my earlier post me and my son practice catch and release. While doing this we were informed by a member here about the apex predator tagging program. This is ran by NOAA out of New Jersey. We made the call and they sent us all the info plus the tags and dart tool. So now we tag and release all our sharks. The tags come with a card you fill out info on the shark and mail back to the program. Heres a pic.




One note on hooks. I never use light circle hooks anymore. These are 7/0 mutu light circle chunk hooks. I do like the size of these hooks and also do like the open gap the hook has. Hook ups were very easy with this hook but as the pic shows on large sharks they dont hold..




Here is some various rigs with brief explanations.

174lb solid wire, hook, aussie swivel.




10ft 480lb multistrand cable, swivels, 6ft 175lb multistrand cable,hook. This rig works well for monsters otherwise dont use. Smaller sharks wont go near it because of all the steel.




10ft 480lb multistrand cable hook swivel. Once again great for monsters but too much steel for anything else.





Various shark rigs ready and waiting.




I wrote this to try to help people with their rigs hopefully this 101 was helpful. I also showed many different rigs I use. So theres no wrong or right rig. Try many rigs and see what works for you and above all keep your lines tight and have fun cause thats what its all about!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also I wanted to note these rigs could be weighted for bottom fishing or a float could be attached or my personal favorite free line the bait depending on what the currents are doing.

When I yak my baits out I come back to shore and place the drag to a light setting. Several reasons for this

1. I want the shark to take the bait with little resistence. Keep in mind most sharks grab the bait run off then consume. If the drag is set to tight it may pull the bait from the shark or the shark will release it. If the shark releases it because of this just lower your drag and wait they usually return for a second bite.

2. Since I use circle hooks you dont have to "set" the hook instead by having a low drag setting the shark will swim off with the bait. After you wait a few seconds so the shark is eating the bait just slowly increase your drag and this will set the circle hook.
 

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Great post, Jawbonez!
 

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Nice looking rigs,, just one question, would rubber coated steel cable work just as well and thus being coated kill the sharks sence of steel??
 

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GREAT POST! I'll make some up and give it a shot. Are you using alluminum crimps on the mono? Doesn't look like it in the photo, and would probably be too weak anyway. Second, have you ever had a failure at either of the crimps? The reason I ask is that I usually "double crimp" mine with a bout 1"-2" between them in case one fails.
 

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I've used crimps like that before and haven't had one fail, but I've never really gotten ahold of a sea monster other than huge rays. I'd be interested to see how easily one would actually fail.
 

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I build more of a "standard" rig as part hobby/part use. Based on your explination, I would say they are meant more for the bigger boys as they do utilize a good bit of steel. But I tend to use them when yakking out baits.

I've been thinking about "downsizing" the rigs and making a few short range setups. Last year in Assateague, we had a bout of breakoffs through-out the night that we blame on the toothy guys. We weren't fishing our shark rigs, just regular drum-type setups. Thought about making a shark rig with a 2' steel cable/wire to protect it from teeth - right up to a heavier mono line. Something a bit easier to cast out into the breakers for when yakking doesn't work ............ say after dark (that is a "no way" for me). Right now, my steel line is 400# but I am thinking about going smaller diameter. Just not sure how I want to do it.

Good write up. Like the smaller vs more hookups comment. Makes a lot of sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Nice looking rigs,, just one question, would rubber coated steel cable work just as well and thus being coated kill the sharks sence of steel??
I read a study on this once and yes it did block the sharks sense of the steel but the coating was so thick it made the cable impractical. To answer your question though it would work. Thanks for the comments
 
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