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I have put 14 new and 1 old hook into a plastic lure box with a lid into saltwater.
The only stainless steel hook is a 3/0 Mustad J hook. At this point it doesn't show any rust.
The 5/0 Mustad J hook has 90% surface rust.
The Eagle claw 2/0 and 4/0 (silver) show no rust yet.
The Eagle claw 9/0 shows no rust yet.
All the rest show a little rust, especially where the hooks were sharpened and then coated with a black sharpie pen.
One thing I found interesting, was the hooks facing up were rusting but the part of the hook laying on the bottom of the plastic box was showing little or no rust.
I'll get a list of all the hooks I used the next time I post.
Time in the water: 27 hours
 

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Pretty cool science project.If it comes up I might be able to use that one for my kids school project.I'm interested in knowing the manufactures and the results.
 

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Never heard of anyone doing this experiment, but it sounds cool!

Personally, I no longer buy stainless hooks. I want my hooks to rust out of the fishes mouths that I hook and lose. ;)
 

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I don't use stainless hooks anymore because any fish that gets hooked severely and breaks off has probably had it!
Instead I use the regular carbon steel with a good finish such such a tin, etc. These will break down.
A little known secret is to coat the hooks after sharpening with "Lanolin". You can get it at the drug store. Just ask for pure Lanolin.
Changeling
 

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Good idea to test these things out. It's hard to find the right compromise between a hook that'll rust out but won't rust in your box before you get a chance to use them.

I usually give my hooks a squirt of WD-40 to keep them from rusting to pieces.
 

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Greetings All!

Best (for the fish, at least) to use bronzed hooks for smaller species, and non-offset circle hooks for the big boys. Tinned and nickel-cadmium plated hooks are toxic, slow to rust, and cause infected lesions that ultimately kill the fish. Eagle Claw sells bronzed wide gap and kahle hooks with lazer points in bulk packages of 50 for $4.00 - $6.00. It really bugs me when fishermen pull a $0.25 hook out of a fish and throw it back covered in blood....
 

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Manayak Jake,I agree.. A "true circle" and not an "offset" is the way to go.. If I buy one with an offset,it gets fixed with plyers... ;) If it's too hard to unhook a fish,it is ALWAYS better to cut the line and set him free,letting the hook corode away..
Try putting talcom powder in your hook containers to wick any excess moisture away.. ;)
 

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I never thought of testing like this..I just replace hooks and line every year anyway..I have three set ups that I like to use and my wife has one that she uses..I feel back maybe twenty feet and if I feel any roughness I change the line..The hooks are cheap enough that if I just buy new ones..
 

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The Talc powder is a good idea. Moisture is the true enemy. I only have a few lures with stainless since it hard on fish and do not hold a point well.
 
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