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Discussion Starter #1
Posting this here because the rod building sub looks a bit dead.

With the constraints of quarantine and having 2 young kids, most of my fishing now is at ponds, usually from the bank.

One of my main haunts is covered in a thick layer of watershield (think small, sticky lilypads that make fishing even a t-rigged worm a hassle). All of my spots have at least some vegetation to deal with.

I am plenty proficient with a baitcaster, but for bank fishing I much prefer a spinning setup. In addition, I prefer finesse fishing, usually weightless t-rigged soft plastics.

With that in mind, I want to build my ultimate pond bank rod for bass. Requirements are:
  • Spinning
  • 6 foot length or less (5.5 foot is ideal), for fishing from holes along bank
  • Able to handle tossing 1/8 oz up to 1/2 oz weight
  • Strong enough to muscle a bass out of heavy vegetation (will be using 30 pound braid on reel)
  • Will be used with a 4000-sized reel (Daiwa SS Tournament 1600)
  • Reasonably light, for comfortably fishing for hours if needed.
I have a neat rod for this now -- an old Lew's spinning rod, 6 foot length, with a great action for what I'm doing. It is an old rod with the removable reel seat, and I can't get used to it. It's a little bit collectible so I hate to tear into it and rebuild it. I also have some older 6 ft. IM-6 graphite rods that are decent for this approach, but they are medium action -- not great for horsing fish out of cover.

Given all this, I'm thinking my best bet is to buy a 6 foot MH rod and build it spinning. I would love to shorten it to 5.5 ft, so my question is this:

Would I be better off to remove 6" from the butt or the tip of the blank? I know removing from the tip means less castability with lighter lures. I worry though that if I remove 6" from the butt, then move the reel seat up 6", the blank may fail while dragging in a 10-pound gob of vegetation/largemouth.

Thoughts?

I'm also open to other suggestions anyone has for a setup for this type of fishing. Again I'm proficient with baitcasters, and even have some older 5.5ft baitcast setups, but 1) they can't handle finesse as well, and 2) no matter what, eventually you will slap a piece of vegetation on a cast and end up with an ungodly overrun. I need to be able to skip a 4" weightless worm under a willow tree from a small hole on the bank, and baitcasters aren't doing that.
 
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