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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is how I tie my Fish Finder rig.

I Snell the hook with a uni-Snell and terminate the line with surgeons loop and a swivel,,,total length about 3-4 inches.

I connect that to a 50 lb shock leader (length of your choice) and use a Fish Striker removable weight slider on the shock leader.

You can sling this a long, long way, conventional or spinner, but lets not go there again:D

Here are some pics
http://www.pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=4927

http://pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/4927

http://pierandsurf.com/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/4926
 

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I hope you do not take this as an attack or being a nimrod but everything looks great except the plastic slider. They will weaken and break off. Just use a coast lock or even just a barrel snap swivel. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I hope you do not take this as an attack or being a nimrod but everything looks great except the plastic slider. They will weaken and break off. Just use a coast lock or even just a barrel snap swivel. JMO
Matter of fact, I showed the plastic piece rather than what you suggest( which is what I use) so as not to confuse folks.

My true preference is a double eye swivel on the line with a crosslock tied to the bottom eye with 50lb mono (min) to a coast lock.

Coast locks are the bomb man...use nothing else:D
 

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i posted this comment on one of your pictures before i found this thread, figured id just ask it here for a better dissusion.
here is an idea. instead of tying both the shock and the snelled leaders to the swivel, why not tie them open ended? i think doing so would make swaping out terminal tackle simple with no retying. i forget the name of the knot. but by taking the looped end through the eye of the swivel, passing the entire swivel through the loop, and pulling it tight, you now have a removable rig right? obviously the snelled end would have to be attached before the shock leader.

thoughts?
 

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it seems you would not want the looped connections to the swivel (from the hook leader and the shock line)....hook moving around can possibly get caught up in it...just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it seems you would not want the looped connections to the swivel (from the hook leader and the shock line)....hook moving around can possibly get caught up in it...just a thought.
I feel that the swivel could be anywhere along the line as long as at least one in line between the reel and the bait.

Where you put it is up to you and probably worth a whole new thread.

Kick it off guys,,,,where should the swivel be???:popcorn:

I am game for where ever is best> :popcorn:
 

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well obviously your going to want the swivel between your shock and snell leaders. i think what he was getting at was that with the open loops your just creating a larger margin for error. say the hook could tumble around in the surf and eventually get tangled on itself.

i remember when i was young the easy way we did things was a carolina rig. egg sinker with proper weight, and a swivel... essentially the most basic "fish finder" rig. we always used the presnelled eagle claws with the loop at the end like you have here. slide the loop through the untied end of the swivel, hook through the loop, and pull tight. this eliminated the big loop, and essentially doubled your breaking strength at the swivel. i like the idea of a surgeons loop at the end of the snelled leader, but personally id use a different knot for attaching the shock to the swivel.

question... you tied the snell first right? was the surgeons loop a pain in the arse to tie with that short of a leader? and what test is your snelled leader? ive tried tying my 80lb snells that short to a swivel and find it difficult to keep them as short as id like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well obviously your going to want the swivel between your shock and snell leaders. i think what he was getting at was that with the open loops your just creating a larger margin for error. say the hook could tumble around in the surf and eventually get tangled on itself.

i remember when i was young the easy way we did things was a carolina rig. egg sinker with proper weight, and a swivel... essentially the most basic "fish finder" rig. we always used the presnelled eagle claws with the loop at the end like you have here. slide the loop through the untied end of the swivel, hook through the loop, and pull tight. this eliminated the big loop, and essentially doubled your breaking strength at the swivel. i like the idea of a surgeons loop at the end of the snelled leader, but personally id use a different knot for attaching the shock to the swivel.

question... you tied the snell first right? was the surgeons loop a pain in the arse to tie with that short of a leader? and what test is your snelled leader? ive tried tying my 80lb snells that short to a swivel and find it difficult to keep them as short as id like.
The snelled hook line is 100 lb Berkely Big Game mono, the shock leader is 50lb Hi Seas Quatro Plus Camo Mono.

I snell the hook first then tie in the Surgeons. The trick to getting it short is to actually start with long line, then double the tag line end coming out of the snell in the middle. Tie the Surgeons down close and then move the knot down as close as you can get it.


The trick though is don't be stingy with line, the longer you start with the easier it is to tie. Remember your only paying pennies per yard for this stuff, so ending up with a bunch on the floor is no big deal:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yes except I dont have the loops . is that better



9rock
Those are surgeon loops that connects the two different tests of line in the rig. The line with the weight on it is actually not your running line but the shock leader, which is 50lb and is actually about 15 feet long and is tied on the other end to your running line which should be 15-20 lbs and no more.

The shock leader serves several purposes. It absorbs the shock of throwing 6-10 0z, it gives you something to grab with your bear hands with out the line cutting you and it gives you more strength when your pulling a big fish out of the water.
 

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Just my 2 cents for what its worth. The tag end of the Snell should run Parallel the the Shank so that the hook is in line,not turning back. Also you can make up the Snoods by tying an Offshore Swivel knot at the Swivel. Then connect to your Shock to swivel with a Palomar. Makes for a more streamline rig.
As far as the sinker slides I have used them for years with no failures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just my 2 cents for what its worth. The tag end of the Snell should run Parallel the the Shank so that the hook is in line,not turning back. Also you can make up the Snoods by tying an Offshore Swivel knot at the Swivel. Then connect to your Shock to swivel with a Palomar. Makes for a more streamline rig.
As far as the sinker slides I have used them for years with no failures.
That brings up a good question,,,should the Tag end exit out of the eye on the side of the point or should it come out opposite the point.

Which brings up another point is the answer the same for all hooks or just circles?

I will sit back watch this cause I really don't know the definitive answer:popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
 

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I have a question about the hooks as well. I use the Owner SSW 8/0- 10/0 and they have the offset eyelet where you tie onto to it. Not sure what it's called. But i noticed on the Mustad circles that they don't have it and then the hooks dangles very oddly. and then how the Owners dangle perfectly straight. What's everybody's preference on this?
 
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