Looking for some lead any suggestions
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There was a thread on this topic years ago and I don't remember which member started it. They suggested you can go to a tire or auto shops and ask them to save you tire weights. There was a difference in opinion using tire weights as some say tire weights is not pure lead while some said they didn't notice any difference and it was perfectly fine.
One of my buddy did went thru with it (using tire weights) and I didn't notice any difference.
Good luck with it..
One of my buddy did went thru with it (using tire weights) and I didn't notice any difference.
Good luck with it..
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975 Posts
Lead is becoming harder to get for free. I pour too, and used to get tire weights free, but now more folks want the lead, so many tire shops either save it for specific folks or they sell it.
There's always sellers on Ebay with lead. Prices range a bit, and of course shipping can really add to the price. The purer lead types often demand the higher bids.
There is a guy on Ebay who often has lead for $25, plus $10 shipping, and you get 30 to 32 lbs. I've bought from him several times, with no problems. I'll generally pay up to about $1.65 per lb, but that's my limit. You can go to scrap dealers & probably get some cheaper, but it's going to be dirty & need to be processed to remove the junk. All in how much time you're willing to put into it for the cost.
One more thing, there's a big push to remove lead from all wheel weights. You need to know what you're getting if you go that route. I have some that are zinc, and it melts at a much higher temp than lead, so is really no use. It will also contaminate lead for pouring if you do get it melted. Lead wheel weights are alloyed with other metals such as tin & antimony to make them harder, but can have such things as arsenic in them as well in small amounts, so take precautions.
Bullets, and lithograph lead used in printing are desired, as they're closer to pure, but again, they're in demand & are harder to get cheap.
For sinkers, wheel weight lead is fine if you can get it. I have a lot of molds, and try to use the softer, purer lead for pouring the smaller size jigs, but have been using recycled wheel weights for many years for he larger jigs & sinkers without a lot of problems.
There's always sellers on Ebay with lead. Prices range a bit, and of course shipping can really add to the price. The purer lead types often demand the higher bids.
There is a guy on Ebay who often has lead for $25, plus $10 shipping, and you get 30 to 32 lbs. I've bought from him several times, with no problems. I'll generally pay up to about $1.65 per lb, but that's my limit. You can go to scrap dealers & probably get some cheaper, but it's going to be dirty & need to be processed to remove the junk. All in how much time you're willing to put into it for the cost.
One more thing, there's a big push to remove lead from all wheel weights. You need to know what you're getting if you go that route. I have some that are zinc, and it melts at a much higher temp than lead, so is really no use. It will also contaminate lead for pouring if you do get it melted. Lead wheel weights are alloyed with other metals such as tin & antimony to make them harder, but can have such things as arsenic in them as well in small amounts, so take precautions.
Bullets, and lithograph lead used in printing are desired, as they're closer to pure, but again, they're in demand & are harder to get cheap.
For sinkers, wheel weight lead is fine if you can get it. I have a lot of molds, and try to use the softer, purer lead for pouring the smaller size jigs, but have been using recycled wheel weights for many years for he larger jigs & sinkers without a lot of problems.
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That's a good deal! $1 a lb, plus the eyes can probably be re-used!
After looking into casting your own weights it appears to me that it's not cost effective. You can net around 106 3oz weights out of 20lbs of lead. OK, now you have a lifetime supply of 3oz. Now you want to add some 2oz so you have to buy another mold for $30. 20lbs of lead later you have a 1 1/2 lifetimes supply of 2oz weights and so on and so on. It seems to me it's cheaper and much safer for your health to just buy them. I reload my own ammo and came to same conclusion about casting my own a long time ago. I already get too much lead exposure just handling all those bullets. Anyway if you decide to go ahead with it I wish you well.
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as stated above my father goes around the auto shops for his 3 and 5 lbs weights. Unless your using more than 6 oz sinkers, trackers suggestion would probably be your best option. I used to be one of those guys that would stock up on gear thinking I would need and use it all. I was so wrong. Even fishing as much as I do, for the year I probably spend only $30 on sinkers. If your fishing for tog, fishing on wrecks or deep sea is when your gonna need that mold. You can save some money and buy a mold with different sizes but the draw back is making one sinker at a time.
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I'll add my 2 cents about molding your own. I do it, and for many years sold lures & sinkers. For selling, you almost have to mold them yourself. If you're a charter capt. & have the time, it might be worthwhile. If you use a particular size or type of sinker, or jigs, or any lure made from lead that's difficult to get in your area, then perhaps it would be worth it to you. Otherwise, as a hobby for supplying yourself, it's fun to do, but highly doubtful you'll save much money. New molds are about $50, used would be less if you can find the one you need. The melting pot & other related items are going to cost you at least another $50, and that's even before you obtain any lead. For many types of sinkers you'll need the brass or stainless eyes to fit your mold, so now you're adding more supplies. Before long, you'll decide you want to start making another type of sinker or lure. Now your buying more molds & supplies.
I started with 2 molds, and now have about 300. Took me years to accumulate what I have, but it's a considerable sum. Like I said, I was selling what I made too, so it was a business investment for awhile, and everything is paid for now, but for strictly my fishing, I could have spent the money just on what I actually needed & been ahead on the costs.
One other thing, if you do start pouring & decide you don't like it or wish to continue, there's usually someone else who will buy the mold & supplies you have, so you should be able to recoup some of the money you've spent. I've sold a few molds over the years that I had purchased used & a few actually got more for them than what I had paid.
It's a good hobby, but very few actually save money doing it.
I started with 2 molds, and now have about 300. Took me years to accumulate what I have, but it's a considerable sum. Like I said, I was selling what I made too, so it was a business investment for awhile, and everything is paid for now, but for strictly my fishing, I could have spent the money just on what I actually needed & been ahead on the costs.
One other thing, if you do start pouring & decide you don't like it or wish to continue, there's usually someone else who will buy the mold & supplies you have, so you should be able to recoup some of the money you've spent. I've sold a few molds over the years that I had purchased used & a few actually got more for them than what I had paid.
It's a good hobby, but very few actually save money doing it.
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I started pouring my own last year and have enjoyed my time spent on the process. I have got lead from multiple sources (tire weights, old pipes, old keels, old wall sheeting and old shielded wire). The wheel weights were the easiest to come by but the dirtiest to process. Right now I have about a 2-3 year supply already poured and about #150 poured in ingots. I have only paid for lead once on ebay for less than $1 a pound wheel weights.
I have Lee melting pot, but you can get by with a Coleman stove and a cast iron pot/ladle. Check the thrift store for old cast iron or Estate sales (sometimes you can find lead)
Remember lead melts at about 620 degrees so be safe, wear gloves, eye projection and long sleeves.
It will take awhile to recoup your expenses, but its great thing to do during winter months.
AX
I have Lee melting pot, but you can get by with a Coleman stove and a cast iron pot/ladle. Check the thrift store for old cast iron or Estate sales (sometimes you can find lead)
Remember lead melts at about 620 degrees so be safe, wear gloves, eye projection and long sleeves.
It will take awhile to recoup your expenses, but its great thing to do during winter months.
AX
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Marty they're yours. Since they were given to me by my old fishing buddy and long time TF memberTrigger Fish, you can have them for the same price - FREE.
Since I'm selling my boat I won't be needing them. I'll give you a call and maybe we can have lunch - Fish Tacos & :beer:
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There are also real dangers in trying to recover lead from lead-acid batteries. (deadly gas given off, google it) Lots of folks have died and been seriously injured trying to do that. I cast bullets and fishing weights. If you know someone that has an outdoor firing range, lead can be mined from the berm, and often just picked up off the ground!
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Yep, many folks don't understand that batteries can explode and those fumes stay in there a long time after the batteries been emptied.
Bit too expensive for pouring IMO.
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