Pier and Surf Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

2,595 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's the way I disassemble and reassemble the Abu 6500 C3CT Blue Yonder. This is just to show you how I do it; it may not be the quickest, or the most correct, but I don't have parts left over and my reels work :) I purposefully did not get into bearing cleaning, oiling, bearing types or the virtues of aftermarket drag systems since I have no experience with any of those things (I'm still an Abu newbie)! I'm sure other members would have more detailed information about bearings and drags. Enjoy! :fishing: :cool:

Lay out the tools. In the Blue Yonder’s case, I’m using a flat bladed screwdriver, a shish kabob skewer (not shown), a penny and a pair of pliers.

First, loosen the three thumb screws on the right side plate. They are the three that protrude from the side plate near the rim. If they are tight, a penny will loosen them up without torquing them too much.

In this picture, the skewer is pointing to the brake carrier retaining spring. This spring holds the brake carrier on the right side of the spool.

Jab the retaining spring and lift it away in a circular motion around the spring.

It should pop free.

Take the brake carrier and the spring off and lay them aside. This opens up the access to the right side spool bearing

Using the point of the skewer, reach in and pull the bearing out. Conversely, you can push it out from the other end, or use a bearing removal tool. I like the skewer because it’s stiff, but not so much that it can harm the spool or the bearing.

The right side spool bearing is pulled out.

On the left side is the clicker cog; on a Blue Yonder, this part holds the left side spool bearing in place. Not all CT style Abus have this; the Mag Elites have another retainer spring that holds the left side spool bearing in place and a brass “speed bushing”

Pull the clicker cog and it should come free. If not, gentle application of pull from a pair of pliers should help. Whichever method is used, ensure that the cog is not damaged.

Using the point of the skewer, reach in and pull the bearing out, like on the right side.

Here, the left side spool bearing is removed.

This picture shows the Blue Yonder spool disassembled. The Mag Elites will have a brass bushing and a circular retaining spring in place of the plastic clicker cog. Here’s the time to clean the bearings in whichever way you see fit. I’m not going to go into too much detail since it’s already covered elsewhere, but the method I use is dropping the bearings into some lighter fluid, soak, dry and reoil.

On the left side plate, pull the screws one at a time and put a dab of grease into the holes. This ensures that the screws won’t seize up and make the left side plate irremovable. Since my Blue Yonder still has a coat of grease on the clicker parts, I elected not to disassemble the left side plate. But, to do so only means backing out the three screws and pulling the side plate off.

A picture of the right side plate with the spool shaft still attached.

Pull the shaft off of the right side plate.

Wipe the spool shaft clean and apply a very thin coat of oil to it with your fingertip.

Wipe the brake race clean with a napkin moistened with lighter fluid. On a Blue Yonder, this is what the brakes contact to control the spool: a clean race coupled with clean brakes work much better. Wipe dry.

Unscrew the screw holding the handle nut retaining plate.

Remove the screw and the retaining plate/

Remove the handle nut.

Under the handle nut is a C-clip that holds the gear sleeve onto the gear stud. This C-clip has to be popped out in order to get the handle off. Gently pry it off, taking care not to launch it across the room!

Remove the handle.

Back the drag star all the way off and remove.

There are two screws that hold the brake plate onto the right side plate. This is one of them…

This is the other. Unscrew these two screws and set aside.

With the two screws removed, lift the side plate straight up.

Pull the gear sleeve with attached main gear and drag stack off of the gear stud.

There’s a small space between the outer edge of the “tower” that the drag star screws onto and the IAR bearing. I like to fill this space with some heavy duty marine grease that’s not runny to prevent water intrusion. Conversely, you can apply a corrosion blocker of some sort to the IAR bearing to prevent rust. The IAR bearing in newer Abus are pressed into the side plate, and are very hard to remove if they seize up. It’s easier to take preventative care of it than replacing the side plate.

This is the brake plate minus the gear sleeve/drag stack. The big chunk of plastic with the two metal tines is the pinion spring assembly. Beneath it is the push button release assembly.

Remove the pinion spring assembly by pulling straight up.

Remove the pinion gear in its carrier by pulling straight up.

2,595 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Pull the three pieces of the push button release mechanism off. Note, there’s a little spring that hooks onto the long piece; this has to be unhooked from the long piece before it can be extracted.

There’s a lot of old grease and grime.

I wipe it down well with a towel dampened with lighter fluid and dry well.

I brush on a light coat of marine grease on all of the inner surfaces (the side you see here) of the brake plate, including all the studs on it. I also brush the inside of the side plate as well. This helps to slow the corrosive effects of saltwater in the internals of the reel that’s not often cleaned.

Put this part (technical term: push button release doohickey :D) on the brake plate first.

Put the push button itself on the brake plate next.

Put this part (technical term: push button release thingamabob :D) on the brake plate after the push button and hook on the spring.

Put the pinion gear and carrier back on the brake plate.

Put the pinion spring assembly back on the brake plate on top of the push button parts. The push button itself has a cutout in the pinion spring assembly; it won’t go all the way down unless the push button is in the cutout.

Here’s a view of the drag stack exploded. From top, left to right are the gear sleeve, fiber washer, main gear, drag washer, keyed metal washer, drag washer, eared metal washer, drag washer and domed metal washer. The last washer is “domed” and the dome part should face outwards. If the drags in the reel are stock, they should be wiped clean and free of grease before reassembly. If they are Smoothies or Carbontex, follow the instructions from the manufacturer.

This is what the drag stack should look like reassembled.

Brush grease on the main gear, ensuring that it is a fine, even coat. Aim for good coverage, not overabundance of grease on the gear.

Slide the reassembled gear sleeve/drag stack onto the gear stud.

Put the right side plate back onto the brake plate. Note: there’s a slotted stainless steel sleeve that goes on the gear sleeve where it goes through the IAR bearing. Mine didn’t drop out of the IAR bearing so it’s not shown in the pictures, but if it does, it should go on top of the domed metal drag washer.

Holding the side plate together, test the push button release: it should push in smoothly.

Turn the gear sleeve and it should pop back out crisply. If it’s hard to push in or feels mushy, DO NOT force it; take the side plate back apart and make sure that the pinion gear carrier is in the proper orientation and right side up.

Reinstall the two brake plate screws.

Brush on a light coat of grease on the threads of the gear sleeve where the drag star and the handle nut threads on.

Install the drag star, and tighten it down to provide the space to install the handle.

Install the handle spacer. The two tabs on the spacer should face down towards the drag star.

Replace the handle.

Replace the C-clip and the handle nut. Tighten the handle nut so that the handle nut retaining plate lines up with the screw hole. Replace the screw.

Pop the freshly cleaned and lubed bearing into the spool.

Install the clicker cog. Note: on Mag Elites, the bearing is held in by a circular retaining spring, which should be reinstalled first before the brass bushing.

Drop in the right side spool bearing.

Reinstall the brake carrier and the retaining spring.

Reinstall the retaining spring by hooking one end in the groove in the spool above the brake carrier and slide the other end in with the skewer.

Slide the centrifugal brakes in.

Reinstall the spool shaft and spool into the right side plate

Insert into the frame, align the holes and tighten the thumb screws on the right side plate. Do not over tighten those thumb screws; tighten until they are just firm with the penny.

2,088 Posts
Good Job AK..this needed to be done...And your camera is better than mine.
Bible worthy most definitely

5,203 Posts

I thought the same thing with the pliers ... use some kind of wrench even if it's a cresent wrench

One other thing is when putting it back together make sure the brakes are in the IN position ...

Great thread

2,595 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hookless: thanks for the kind words, Jerry. It means a lot coming from you. If it weren't for the car trouble I've been having (why does oxygen sensors cost $175 each to replace, and who the #$%^ thought up putting four of them in my car? :mad: ), the check for the vintage Abu you build would be well on its way. Oh well, next month :redface:

Surf Fish, surfchunker: I normally use the Abu wrench. However, it was getting near midnight and I didn't have the energy to go dig it out :eek: :p

3,177 Posts
Nice job AK! Definitely bible material. I see you took my advice to heart and are preparing for our contest! :eek: See ya during the week, I'll get those sensors swapped for you.

3,788 Posts

This is a great description and documented most excellently. I know I'm not the biggest ABU HO around here but I do have more than my share, particularly the BY's and this is perfect!! :D

It should go into the BIBLE as there are many of us ABU devotees out there. I know I periodically GEEZ and forget how I took apart a reel. This definitely helps!!

Great job!! BIBLE time! :D

462 Posts
Excellent Documentation and Photos. I have 2 6500CTC# Sports Rockets. They are very similar to the Blue Yonder. The first time you clean and lube these reels is the hardest. I find that I am now breaking them down and cleaning them on just about every other re spool.

The Reel nut on my sports rockets is a 10MM. A socket or wrench prevents scaring the nut....otherwise - Great job!
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.