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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As a new member here, I would like to first say hello to everyone and thank you for letting me join your Community!
I’m looking to get everyone’s opinions on what they feel would be the best upgrades/modifications on these Abus!
Any of these applications will be more geared towards fishing but also used on the field as well!
I have done some research on the web, and some other forums and this one as well. But not but everybody’s tricks of the trade are always readily available! So maybe, I thought I could get a new thread going here!
Any Info, pictures or detailed explanations would be highly appreciated!
Many thanks in advance!
EA
 

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Good to see ya here, Matt.

Completely remove the the level wind and tape their frame holes, clean the bearings in naphtha (lighter fluid) allow to dry and then apply 1 tiny drop of any kinda good speed reel bearing oil (TS321, Rocket Fuel, Hot Sauce, etc) to each bearing. Adjust the side plate clearance for minimum friction, load the spool with good mono (Sakuma .31mm 14# or .35mm 18#) mono, 5 turn Uni a 60-80# shock leader. Leave all the brake blocks in and test cast over grass first with the payload of yer choice. Remove or add brake blocks to find the sweet spot for the line and payload yer using with the one rod used for testing. There are lotsa other things to consider, such as the most important - yer casting form/technique. Lotsa folks prefer the OTG cast for starters I think it's best to start with a modified Hatteras cast - modified so that after the payload swings back and out, rotate the rod at 45* to your side instead of the typical Hatteras overhead. Installing a mono-mag might be another mod.
 

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Looks like BeachBob pretty well covered it. Isn't much left.
Best option might be to trade it in on an Akios :)
Beach Bob had it correct with one exception
You need to replace the level wind with a post to maintain the reels structure.
Changing any overhead to CT requires this post be it Abu 2500 - 7000, Daiwa 6HM and earlier etc.. Most UK retail outlets can supply these posts for specific reels.
 

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Beach Bob had it correct with one exception
You need to replace the level wind with a post to maintain the reels structure.
Changing any overhead to CT requires this post be it Abu 2500 - 7000, Daiwa 6HM and earlier etc.. Most UK retail outlets can supply these posts for specific reels.
IMHO, it would be best to add that brace, but in reality it's not all that necessary unless yer hunting "monsters", and definitely not required for field casing. Better yet, add a Rocket Reels solid machined cage, as I've done threes times so far.

A pair of 6500 reels ...

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A 5500 with a Rocket Reels spool and hybrid bearings ...

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Well, this'd be down the rabbit hole, how far would you like to go? You didn't show what abu's you have, but first and most important uprade is through clean and service, and replace any drags that are not Carbontex with greased Carbontex (Cal's or Shimano drag grease). LW mods may not help if the reel has sludge in the bearings (clean as noted above; lighter fluid in a small, capped jar, swished around periodically does nicely. If you are up to it and will periodically maintain the reel, pull the shields off so lube the race easily and thoroughly.

Upgrades: CT bar or CT cage to remove LW, or add BB kit to speed LW operation. Depends if you are hunting max distance or casting and retrieving constantly. Flounder fishing off the pier doesn't need 700 yd performance, but I'd want good drags for the odd drum or cobia that can pick up your mullet.

GOOD bearings. Stock may be sufficient depending on task, but cleaned and lubed is key. Otherwise, ABEC 7 or ceramics.

SS gears: not really sure if these are needed when fishing 15-20 lb test at five-seven pounds of drag; I like the smoothness of a brass main, have personally seen 50 lb cobia on a stock 5500C kept out of pier pilings (with some braid of unknown strength), so that's good enough for me, though they may have needed replacement later, lol.

SS spindle

Power handle: I put them on all my 6500 and up reels. Nice when you're winching up your 8-n-bait. I tend to use the rod to play fish so a stock paddle will work fine there, tho.

Mag: knobby kit from Rocket or Black dog. Not needed for dropping a mullet to a flatty.

QTC or Rocket frame: getting in the hole Mad Hatter- deep, but top shelf. I ask myself again if a billet frame is needed when fishing lighter line but for certain it's more durable, and less flex will keep all the widgets lined up better when slinging 8 n bait into low orbit. Plus they're sexy.

Rocket plates: already magged and pretty.

At this point, with all in, we get to "my favorite ax" parable: "See this here ax, it's my favorite, bought it in 1992. It's on the third head and seventh handle. My favorite ax, lasted me 30 years." :)
 

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It's really SO much cheaper and better to buy an Omoto Chief 5000 or 6000. Leave as is for fishing. For added distance, replace the spool bearings with ABEC 5 ceramics, left dry. For tournament casting beyond 200 yards, replace the spool with a Zzeta. Life is still good, despite ....
 

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Squidders are old school "educated thumb" reels, been there back in the 50s and 60s, done that. A "modern" revolver with a mag brake makes these reels viable and accessible for 21st century fish and field casters alike, and a few spinner folks are starting to wake up to the advantages of a multiplier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Thorhammer
Nothing‘s cheap anymore LOL!
Thanks for replying brother!
Oh no definitely not looking to go down the rabbit hole especially with over 30 casting reels now!
I would like to be able to tune and clean them better!
I know I can get better performance out of these reels
I have Abus from 4600AL Mag Trax on up to 7000iC3CT Mags, mostly Swedish Abus though 5000,5600,6000,6500,7000!
Also have a few Akios,Avets,Squalls,Fathoms,525’s, Mag Powers 970,980,990 Saltist, Sealine’s,Tica’s!
I’ve just seen some videos recently of some really killer Abus, both free Spinning while mounted and being casted on the field!
The whole reason I got involved with revolvers,thanks to BeachBob lol!
I was looking for much better distance, more cranking power and ease of casting due to neck and back injuries!
I’ve had some other people tell me it’s not worth doing a bearing in the idler wheel or the level wind!
So you’re suggesting it,so obviously you recommend it and I’m Going to give it a try and see what happens
How about polishing axles and surfaces where there will be friction?

EA
 

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I just did that to an Abu C3 cog wheel - added the bearing. It does make a slight but noticeable difference to the level wind's performance. I think there's a bearing that can be added to the worm as well, haven't found a vendor for that yet.

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I just did that to an Abu C3 cog wheel - added the bearing. It does make a slight but noticeable difference to the level wind's performance. I think there's a bearing that can be added to the worm as well, haven't found a vendor for that yet.

View attachment 69332
I purchased a few of the single bearing oscillation cog wheels from Omoto. Hookless (in Florida) makes them with double bearings. The double bearings provide better stability for the cog wheel. Hookless also has ceramic pawls to replace the pawl associated with the worm gear. It is my understanding that Hookless has closed his repair service but continues to sell parts.

Regarding bearings for the worm gear, the Chief Xtreme 530CX and 630 CX level wind reel worm gears come standard with two stainless steel ball bearings.

Don
 

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I purchased a few of the single bearing oscillation cog wheels from Omoto. Hookless (in Florida) makes them with double bearings. The double bearings provide better stability for the cog wheel. Hookless also has ceramic pawls to replace the pawl associated with the worm gear. It is my understanding that Hookless has closed his repair service but continues to sell parts.

Regarding bearings for the worm gear, the Chief Xtreme 530CX and 630 CX level wind reel worm gears come standard with two stainless steel ball bearings.

Don
Dual bearings on the worm gear make more sense, as does a ceramic pawl. I'll see if I can find Hookless ....

r.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I purchased a few of the single bearing oscillation cog wheels from Omoto. Hookless (in Florida) makes them with double bearings. The double bearings provide better stability for the cog wheel. Hookless also has ceramic pawls to replace the pawl associated with the worm gear. It is my understanding that Hookless has closed his repair service but continues to sell parts.

Regarding bearings for the worm gear, the Chief Xtreme 530CX and 630 CX level wind reel worm gears come standard with two stainless steel ball bearings.

Don



EA
 

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Dual bearings on the worm gear make more sense, as does a ceramic pawl. I'll see if I can find Hookless ....

r.
As it is right now, the Abu 5500 has a steel bearing on the gear side of the level wind worm. I added a ceramic pawl and a steel bearing on the end plate cog gear. I removed all the heavy grease and left no more than a thin film to the entire LW gearing. With a quick handle flip I can get 3 full side-to-side moves of the level wind, not too bad. Need to give it a real world test on a rod throwing some weight.

Oh yeah, I also removed the plastic six block brake and replaced it with a steel dual brake block. I might add a mono mag, hafta see how it works with a pair of blocks first.
 
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