Newbie question- thread size - Page 2
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Thread: Newbie question- thread size

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    philly
    Posts
    601
    Well, 12 days, a case of beer and several profanity laced tirades later, my first rod is turning in the dryer. If its true what they say, that we learn from our mistakes, I learned a helluva lot the past couple weeks. To say that my wrapping technique needs work is being kind. The trim bands especially gave me fits either unravelling or uneven or cutting them off accidentally with the razor, it was bad. Thanks for the advice, I'm not sure if I have a new hobby or not, but hopefully it will fish better than it looks.

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  3. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Honolulu Hawaii
    Posts
    462
    The next one will be easier, better, and have less tirades.
    Enjoy your new fishing rod.

  4. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    148
    on your next build try the New Guide Concept System. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/spinningNGC.pdf

    it works and it works well...if dont correctly. i built a 11ft 2-5oz Cast Pro using the Fuji K guides, 30, 20, 16, 12 to tip. there are 12 guides all together plus tip. some may say its too many, but im pretty sure ill out cast most with a 2oz sting silver.

    my point is, just remember everyone has their own opinion on how to build a rod. find out what works best for you, which is what i did. i use A for under wraps and D for over. I prefer NCP, but will use Nylon/Maderia when needed and i use CP mixed 1/2 and 1/2 with water. no issues with bleed through if you let it soak in and dry properly. for finish i put the first coat on very thin, just enough to prevent the threads from moving, or seal it (as it was showed to me). second coat normally is the last one.

    there is a lot of good information on the internet, just google it and you will find more then you can imagine.

  5. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by phillyguy View Post
    Well, 12 days, a case of beer and several profanity laced tirades later, my first rod is turning in the dryer. If its true what they say, that we learn from our mistakes, I learned a helluva lot the past couple weeks. To say that my wrapping technique needs work is being kind. The trim bands especially gave me fits either unravelling or uneven or cutting them off accidentally with the razor, it was bad. Thanks for the advice, I'm not sure if I have a new hobby or not, but hopefully it will fish better than it looks.
    use a pair of brand new finger nail clippers and you wont have to worry about the razor cutting everything off by accident. just dont use the nail clippers on your nails.

  6. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Salisbury, NC
    Posts
    2,077
    Quote Originally Posted by andrew k View Post
    on your next build try the New Guide Concept System. http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/spinningNGC.pdf

    it works and it works well...if dont correctly. i built a 11ft 2-5oz Cast Pro using the Fuji K guides, 30, 20, 16, 12 to tip. there are 12 guides all together plus tip. some may say its too many, but im pretty sure ill out cast most with a 2oz sting silver.
    I would be one to say that is way to many guides, I would even venture to say with that many guides the recovery of the rod is going to be severly impaired. But I would take you up on your challenge of outcasting me with a sting silver on the same rod.
    I have a 10 ccp 1-4 that I built with micro guides just to prove to someone that I could and it would cast well. And you know what it casts great but it took me 10hrs of test casting and moving around to get the guides right. My point is you can usually make anything work, it may not be ideal or waht most people would say is right, but it will still work. Just go out and have fun with building it will all come together pretty quickly

  7. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Salisbury, NC
    Posts
    2,077
    Ive never diluted cp before either and dont see a reason to but be careful if you do, some brands are solvent based and water will not work well...

  8. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
    Posts
    148
    Quote Originally Posted by Tacpayne View Post
    I would be one to say that is way to many guides, I would even venture to say with that many guides the recovery of the rod is going to be severly impaired. But I would take you up on your challenge of outcasting me with a sting silver on the same rod.
    I have a 10 ccp 1-4 that I built with micro guides just to prove to someone that I could and it would cast well. And you know what it casts great but it took me 10hrs of test casting and moving around to get the guides right. My point is you can usually make anything work, it may not be ideal or waht most people would say is right, but it will still work. Just go out and have fun with building it will all come together pretty quickly
    it looks there is too many guides but i used the new guide system technique and thats what i figured it out for...but ive never been good with math so who knows. meet me on the beach some time ill let you throw it.

    I use the Flex Coat CP and it says on the bottle you can dilute, thats the only reason i did it. id rather use NCP i think it covers better anyway.

    and i second the " Just go out and have fun with building it will all come together pretty quickly "

  9. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Salisbury, NC
    Posts
    2,077
    I have always uses a long discontinued cp so I don't have any real experience with other brands when I finally run out of my brilliance II ill be screwed lol

  10. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    annapolis,KDH
    Posts
    1,510
    any of the water-based CPs can be diluted,i use carsons and dilute 50-50,eliminates crystals

  11. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Honolulu Hawaii
    Posts
    462
    Quote Originally Posted by sunburntspike View Post
    any of the water-based CPs can be diluted,i use carsons and dilute 50-50,eliminates crystals
    Did you mean Cason's?
    http://casoncustomrodfinishes.com/index.html

    I try to stay away from using CP. When I do use it, Cason is my preferred CP.

  12. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    annapolis,KDH
    Posts
    1,510
    dats da stuff don,pulled a billy and added a letter ,LOL!

  13. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Salisbury, NC
    Posts
    2,077
    Quote Originally Posted by sunburntspike View Post
    any of the water-based CPs can be diluted,i use carsons and dilute 50-50,eliminates crystals
    But Cason's also makes a solvent based which is why I said to be careful to which ones you add water

  14. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    3
    U may want to either tape the guides on or leave the wraps unfinished and take the rod out for a practice cast
    Another area that's confusing is reel seat placement
    Try this, take a yard stick and with the arm that you flip the bail with, measure from your arm pit to the middle of,your palm , this distance is a good starting point where to place the middle of the reel seat
    PS I am a newbie also
    Tight lines

  15. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by Tacpayne View Post
    Ive never diluted cp before either and dont see a reason to but be careful if you do, some brands are solvent based and water will not work well...
    Why does CP seem like watered down Elmer's glue?
    I even left some in the cup and it dried exactly like Elmer's?

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