A work associate wanted me to make a lure that he could jig the bridge pilings with. I happened to be on the Yozuri site and got an idea that makes this possible without resorting to just pouring a lead jig. I place another screw-eye near the head of the lure for attaching the weight needed to reach the bottom. The bouyancy of the wood keeps the lure just off the bottom by the length of the leader attached to the weight. We're looking forward to trying out these lures.
what kind of wood...if it is undried it will float straight up...all wood floats...any that you can carve easily...test the float in saltwater...you will netral boyancy at best...the lenght of leader will dertimine where the lure is off the bottom as will the speed of the tide or drift speed...if the troll is fast enough you can drop a hopkins down w/ a 3ft leader/ 4 oz sinker and not get hung up...never could make my own...fresk in a different animal...good luck...
what kind of wood?...how dry?...my fav for big blues busting the surface is a dowl 3/4" 5" drilled through...5/0 hook...round over the end...good 2-3 trips...snug the weight of choice on the nose...i would like to see one of yours...sounds interesting...
Lately I've been using mostly pine. It's been kiln dried, but also re-exposed to the elements so I'd say it's probably the equivalent of air-dried at best. I make stainless steel diving bills so that adds weight to the front, but I fill holes with round split shot sinkers toward the rear to pull down the back some. Realistically, it's anybody's guess as to what deph they suspend. I don't have a swimming pool to test the depth factor and of course that's fresh water.
lots of sea salt in a barrel works for bouyancy...no help on how it runs...my way of thinking is that round is easier...profiles are harder...its like a pike lure...they MUST sit right...salt is not so ridgid...as lond as they don;t spin...
My biggest setback to my luremaking is having the time fishing to sufficiently test them out. I've tried all kinds of different designs. I personally prefer profiles over round lures. I've had to spend the whole time while making round plugs checking and rechecking the balance. The stainless diving bills I use pretty much guarrantee my profile crank-baits won't roll too much to the side unless I highly increase the retrieve speed.
Right now my project is making a family-series lure. My kids came up with the idea when they saw two lures with the same paint scheme beside each other. The larger one they called the "daddy" and the smaller one was the "son". I've got two others to make now to give to my wife and daughter. Maybe some day my children will have tackle boxes full of heirloom lures.
try weighting the body to neutral...the lip is the hard part...angle and all...lipless is easier...once you get the balance...count down...i current...it all changes...easy to make one that shoots to the bottom...getting one to run at 10' is the problem...the co's that make them have tanks,scientists,etc...i make some weird flattie rigs and smile my but off when they work...
The bouyancy of the wood keeps the lure just off the bottom by the length of the leader attached to the weight. We're looking forward to trying out these lures.
Interesting idea, got me thinking. Assuming a vertical presentation from the deck of the bridge . . .
Picture a cedar plug, what trollers use for mahi and bonito; torpedo shaped, small weight in the head but not enough to kill the bouyancy.
Rig it as intended with adjustments to hook size / type as needed with leader going through the plug to a fishfinder.
Use a weight heavy enough to hold bottom, cast upcurrent of the piling, let the sinker settle and then allow the line to slip through the fishfinder which will drop the lure back to the piling eddy. In theory, dropping back 6 ft+/- and jigging it, (hopefully without disturbing the sinker), will present the lure a foot or two off the bottom, struggling in the current. You will probably need to use braid for its small diameter and thus low drag in the current; (you want the lure to drop back, not just put a belly in your line between the rod and sinker).
Some experimentation will be required (might need a stronger profile plug to overcome line belly) and there are certainly limits to current speed for this presentation.
there is something called a "pinka-t" used in the great lakes...that was really speed intolerant...the j-plug was a drilled through body that could be cast or troled...both plastic...when building a wooden lure you will have to weight every one differntly unless you have a guarenteed supply of the same(exact) thing every time...try a no action lureif you don't try to build an action into it same is not that much of a problem...i've been there...
Sgt. Slough, are you going to try making this plug custom or make changes to the plug that you described? I'd sure be curious to find out how it works out for you. My biggest setback is getting time to try out my ideas.
i just ordered some floating jig heads w/5.o hooks...gonna try a sinker slide and drift the jig back...i need to work the bounecy on a slab of cut bait...bare hook first as plastic just makes it float higher...hope they don't need a split shot...i guess i'll see