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Building Whiting/Pompano Rigs

39K views 51 replies 21 participants last post by  mbrajer 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I first wanted to say that I have been using manufactured rigs for a long time. I used to use Tackle Crafters' pomano rig and after a while I found out that I was missing some whiting (gulf kingfish) bites because the hooks were too large. Therefore, I decided to use #2 hooks instead of the #1 hooks on the old rigs. I started using Sea Striker pompano rigs during my last outing and noticed that the hooks rusted and got dull very quickly. After making a visit o my local sporting goods store, I decided to buy the materials to make my own rigs. I have all the materials ready except for the hooks. Has anyone here tried owner Mutu Light circle hooks for their pompano/ whiting rigs and if so, did they rust or dull quickly? I have tried Owner's Tournament Mutu Light circle hooks for catching redfish and hey seemed to hold up well, but I am not sure if the hooks will be too "fat" (even though they claim to use light wire). Also most if not all commercially manufactured pompano rigs use bronze hooks. Does anyone have an opinion to whether the nickel plated owner hooks will be more visible to fish?

Thanks again
 
#4 ·
Unless they're 3/0+ high dollar hooks, I toss them in the trash after every trip. All of my food fish rigs get new hooks each day. Small circles work fine for pomps and whiting, just don't get some with too big of a gap. I like #2 kahles, in black nickel or silver, usually black nickel.
 
#5 ·
Well I make my own rigs and I make enough so that I don't need to change hooks. I just change rigs. If you buy your stuff in bulk it will be cheaper in the long run. Get a good knot/rig tying book or check out the bible board here. Some of the rigs I make I found on the net.
 
#6 ·
I've just started making my own rigs as well. I've been using Gamis #1, 1/0, and 2/0 nautilus circle hooks. They're wicked sharp and, if rinsed off well, they last for several trips before rusting. I've caught spots, croaks, roundheads, pups, flounder, etc... on them depending on the size I use. I like the nautilus better than the octopus, not as wide of a gap.
 
#7 ·
I just found the Nautilus hooks myself, really like them also, havent tried the smaller ones though
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the info guys :)

Also, today while I was tying the dropper loops for my rigs, no matter how large I made the original loop it always turned out to be just over two inches once I tightened it and I would prefer it to be around 2.5 inches. Do you guys have any tips for how to tighten up the dropper loops so I can better control the final length?

Thanks
 
#17 ·
I use the Eagle Claw L197 circles in 2/0 for Pomps and Whiting. They have a wide eye for looping on your rig if you use dropper loop type rigs and they cost a heck of a lot less than Owners. I try to replace my hooks frequently and at 10 for $3.00 it doesn't hurt the wallet too much.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I actually found a pretty good deal on owners. I can get 46 Mutu Light circle hooks for 12 bucks. I think that is a little over 25 cents a hook which isn't all that expensive. But I will definitely look into those Eagle claw L197 hooks especially if I can get them in bulk.

One more question:

On Kahle style hooks do you have to set the hook? That was the style of hooks on my old pompano rigs that I was having trouble with.
 
#20 ·
I was using number 2 hooks (not 2/0 but #2) so I don't think that hooks size was the issue. I might have been running to the pole a bit too quickly though. Usually I wait about 3-4 seconds after the bite before I grab the pole, but I might try waiting a little longer. I have heard that the whiting and pompano will drop the hook/flea if they feel the pyramid sinker. Are there specific sinker styles that will help with this? I usually use a 3-4 oz pyramid sinker (just enough to hold it steady or move very slowly in the current).
 
#22 · (Edited)
if you try and "set the hook" on the bite with a circle you will miss. with a circle just wind the slack out and crank. this motion will slide the hook and turn it straight into the corner of the mouth. i have started using the Octopus not the Octopus Circle and seem to get better hoop up ratio.

this is the rig i build, i use various size and colors of hooks
 
#26 ·
Yeah the only time I yank to free the hook is when I know there is a ray on the other end of the line. But what you described is exactly how I usually reel in a fish. I must admit, I used the same cheap hooks for three days straight which some of you guys are warning against so maybe I had high expectations for the hooks. I definitely will try a different hook. Thanks for the advice guys.

----------------Mods can delete this thread if they want-------------------
 
#24 ·
#27 ·
Some say a 6 inch leader too short and scares them off. Some say 12 inches too long and wraps around and tangles. Some home made go as light as 12 pound for rig, others 40 pound test . A three foot long 2 dropper 40 pound test with 20 pound test leader tied with#2 or#4 kahle gold ,or maybe 1/0 silver O'Shaunessey hook [and orange or maybe chatruese 6mm ,8mm beads if water is milky] with no snap or barrel swivels is good for most "pan fish".
 
#29 ·
I use surgeon's loops to make my dropper loops and to make the 2 loops on either end of the rig that will go to my sinker and swivel; 25lb fluoro is the most I will use for most bottom fishing which is really overkill for most 1-2lb pomps/whiting, but you never know when a pup or black drum or big grey will hit your rig. Also the 25lb is abrasion resistant enough to occasionally survive a few bluefish if they are around. I would just recommend changing your hooks or rigs after every trip, but if you need to save your hooks rinse them off in fresh water immediately after use then spray them w/WD40, this will keep them from rusting. Get a hook file and file the point so it scratches your fingernail before you go fishing again. The sharpness of the hook point is everything...a rusty hook w/a sharp filed point will outcatch a brand new cheap hook which is dull.
 
#30 ·
To make it easier,you can label your dropper loops for lb. test and baggy them.For Suds 2oz-3oz sinker and 20-30 lb test . If the fish are on the outer bar and you need to really reach out using a five oz sinker I feel safer with a 50 lb. test dropper. Use the hook and leader[trace] according to size of fish and water clarity. This time of year i really like one with loop at bottom for sinker,go up 8 " tie dropper loop [DL], go up 12" tie DL, go up 8" tie loop for attaching snap swivel on mainline. Now i can attach and change out the leaders i've tied with #2 gold or nickel hooks whenever they get dull or bit off.
 
#31 ·
This is what I've done in the past - in baggies with hooks on there - easy to change out rigs, but I'm interested in attaching snells to the DL's as an option. What knot do you all think is best for attaching snelled hooks to the loop? I'm thinking uni, but I'm wondering about the helicopter effect. Thanks.
 
#32 ·
#33 ·
http://www.floridasurfcasting.com/2009/04/making-perfect-pompano-rig.html

mbrajer- this "perfect" rig with and without beads is the one I tie most. This throws good because of the way it's made[tied].Also as to attaching DL, I use an "interlocking " loop knot with the snelled hook. This way you can change or switch it out easy.I thinh you can reduce heli.by tying shorter [4"-6"] leader with 30# test.
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